Iguazu Falls and Itaipu Dam

Upon seeing Iguazu, Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly exclaimed "Poor Niagara!"

As we approached Pam asked Ben why he didn't look more impressed.
 

As the morning progressed and we got up close and personal with the 'Devil's Throat' that position changed somewhat.

 
The only word that comes close is 'awesome' - from the days when it meant massively ridiculously bigger and more impressive than anything you have ever encountered, ever.

They are beautiful, majestic, frighteningly powerful and well worth the two days we spent exploring and touring on both the Brazilian and Argentinian sides.

 

And then there was the crazy boat ride into the falls themselves - beats any power shower previously enjoyed...

anyone apprehensive?

 from this point the camera was safely packed in the bag and heart in mouth

Itaipu Dam

 
Moving on from the awesomeness of nature to what man can do when he puts his mind to it, one of the '7 wonders of the modern world', Itaipu Dam which was built as a joint Paraguayan and Brazilian project and currently produces approx 95% and 20% of their national electricity demands respectively.

It is just gargantuan in size and output - the dam itself is just over 7 kms long (225 metres high) and within it there are 20 turbines each generating approx 700MW (Hinkley Point B, the UK's most powerful nuclear facility produces 1260MW in total!) and a freak power outage in 2009 apparently affected close to 50 million people.

Despite the obvious environmental damage (this is prime jungle region) and social devastation caused (approx 10k families displaced) with the damming of the river/creation of the lake (it took enough concrete to build 210 stadia and steel to construct 380 Eiffel Towers) there is no doubt that the benefits today are huge in terms of clean electricity production.

The Brazilians are very proud of this project and also of the research centre that now adjoins it, the continued preservation of the wildlife and eco systems of the national park that surrounds it, the education of all visitors and the long term investment in their country's efforts with clean energy.

And rightly so, for if they were to burn oil to produce the same amount of energy it would require over 400,000 barrels of oil a day, which wouldn't do a great deal of good for these chaps who were kind enough to pose for us along the way...

who know what might happen...

São Paulo

partial view from the Edificio Italia (tallest building in Sao Paulo)

And so to Brrrrrrrraaaaaaazil - yahoooooo...(yes we did fly from Bogotá but it was part of our original ticket so isn't classed as a super cheeky one - as expected the distances are huge, 6 hour flight, just time for three movies and a short nap). 


Let's deal with the ultimate cliche first, the Brazilian women. It can be reported through totally impartial, objective and observational research techniques that there is a high proportion of lady folk with the bits and bumps in the correct quadrant.

Brazilian warning - Some friends warned us before we left the UK that their recent experience of Brazil had been that it was as expensive as London.


After five days of enjoying the sights/museums/restaurants/open spaces in SP we have absolutely no evidence to dispute that claim, it is expensive and that is just the way it is.

Huge light box in the Pinacoteca Museum / Mural in the city

Parque Ibirapuera

Our indebted thanks to Nacho and Claudia for their fabulous hospitality and guidance in this massive megalopolis and of course for my first proper caipi hangover of the south american campaign - oooochimama!!!

Rules of SP to enable a happy stay (copyright Ignacio Palma): 
1) As far as the populace are concerned Brazil is not part of south america, it is a separate entity so don't make any assumptions having travelled anywhere else on the continent. 


2) It is v expensive, do not convert everything back to your own currency cos it will only hurt, just go with it and enjoy. 


3) São Paulo is a big ol' insiders club - you need to live there to know all the great eateries/bars/sights and sounds which are kept under wraps from outsiders.


4) Brazil is the ultimate melting pot where the only qualification to be accepted is to speak the language. Once you do you are in the club and the real fun begins.

Bogotá 2 + Salt Cathedral...

Back to the big city for a few more days - a soggy tour on bicycles, up the funicular for spectacular views, and lots of fab conversation with Liss and Mike from Nottingham and Larissa from Canada.


It has to be said that one of the best aspects of this trip has been the like minded people that we have met along the way and the invigorating conversation that has ensued - thank you all...

Then an overnight visit to the town of Zipaquirá (couple of hours north east) which was built on the wealth of the nearby salt mine. 


The mine is still operational but the main attraction is the underground cathedral (apparently over 3000 people attend Sunday mass) which as you can see is rather beautifully lit. It is odd to say the least to be 200 metres underground in a place of worship...

 

The journey so far...

Click on the 'view larger map' link to see more/less



View Larger Map

Colombia's best stimulant

West of Bogotá where the hills are a little more gentle (approx 1000-2500 m's above sea level) Colombians grow some of the world's best coffee.

There are three main cities in the region and we chose to stay at Villa Martha in Zona Cafetera Pereira.

If ever you fancy spending a few days (or weeks) in beautiful tropical mountain countryside, drinking as much of the most fabulous coffee that the human body can cope with that has been picked, dried, roasted, ground and brewed in-house, eating delicious home cooked food, learning about coffee production, chilling by the pool (or on the veranda watching hummingbirds or other wildlife feed) and being looked after by two of the warmest and loveliest people on earth (who also have loads to share about their country, the Americas and the world in general) then Villa Martha is the place!

 

 

We did all of the above, loved every moment of it and will definitely return for more of the same in the future.

And thank you to Peter and Margot, lovely to meet and spend time with you - you are an inspiration.

Rafael took us for a hands on tour of the production of coffee, from seed to cup. 

1. the seeds are planted in sand

2. the seedlings are potted until they are ready to be planted (when they have 7 layers of leaves)

3. the coffee bushes flower after 2 years

 

4. the coffee pods are picked by hand over a period of 2 months once they have turned red

5. the pods are de-shelled, washed and left to ferment overnight

6. the beans are dried in the sun for 2 or 3 days

7. the dry skin is removed and the green coffee beans are revealed

8. the coffee is roasted and turns from...

green beans to..........  coffee as we know it

9. the freshly roasted coffee is cooled and ground

10. its ready to drink!